Отправлено: 29.03.22 10:18. Заголовок: De Bethune DB28 DB28ZS5C3N

Slim DB28XP Trio: Celebrating DB28's 10th Anniversary


De Bethune's DB28XP collection is the best new watch collection of 2020. Watchmaker Denis Flageollet's relentless commitment to improving, perfecting and advancing state-of-the-art technology is reflected in the latest addition to De Bethune's iconic collection. Launched to commemorate the decade of the original DB28, the XP also allows L'Auberson's brand to revisit the landmark "Aiguille d'Or" it won at the 2011 Grand Prix de la Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).

Of course, competition for new watches is fierce, the grade 5 titanium XP is a variant of the previous model, and the market likes established blue-chip brands. But the DB28XP trilogy accomplishes more than just routine model updates. While most watch brands will satisfy themselves with dial updates, new metal options and stylistic tweaks to successful products, De Bethune has redesigned every aspect of the DB28 to create the XP trio.


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The DB28XP obsessively enhances one of the original's standout qualities: its thickness. At 11.7mm thick, the 2010 DB28 is very thin for a watch with a spherical moon phase display, power reserve indicator and 144 hours of mainspring power. Considering the steel Rolex Daytona is only 12.3mm thick, it's clear that the 2010 DB28 is a packaging marvel.

Regardless of. Flageollet uses his scalpel to cut the DB28XP to 7.2mm.

Note that Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak 'Extra Thin' - the famous 'Jumbo' - is an 8.1mm relative to the Zafteg, and the extent of De Bethune's achievement is evident. The XP's titanium case remains 43mm and retains the signature spring-loaded "floating" lugs. For that matter, all the brand-defining technology has been preserved, from the "triple-chutes" shock protection, to the proprietary balance wheel and hairspring, to the six-day power reserve. DB28XP offers more with less.

Lovers of poetic imagery will find their soulmate in the DB28XP starry sky. Starry Sky was nominated in the 2020 GPHG's "Men's" watch category, showcasing the poetic collection of the designer De Bethune. Hidden inside the case is the same six-day power reserve as the standard DB28, but the external design statement is unique to this model. The Starry Sky is the same size as the DB28XP, with polished bridges and aggressive shock protection, in its place are classic hour rings and a solid dial inspired by heaven.

Every DB28XP Starry Sky includes a traditional satin track to track the passage of hours and minutes. But on the inside of the silver-titanium hour ring, the Starry Sky incorporates a "Microlite" sculpted image of the night sky. De Bethune uses a proprietary process to fire titanium until it takes on a rich blue hue, while the Microlite process is a reduction etching process that bypasses the often clichéd tradition of dial “guilloche”.


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Individual platinum "stars" are placed by hand to create a cosmic canvas that allows the starry sky to live up to its name. Even better, the exact arrangement of the stars in each "sky" is specified by the client; De Bethune will arrange the celestial bodies to represent the sky at a particular location on a particular day. Weddings, births, graduations and other personal milestones can be commemorated in titanium and gold.

De Bethune's ultimate expression of the DB28XP concept is the top-of-the-line XP tourbillon. Like the Starry Sky, the tourbillon has also been nominated for GPHG consideration - one in the "Men's Complications" category.

Unlike the standard XP and Starry Sky, the tourbillon variant had to incorporate a rotating regulator mount and power supply to accommodate this greedy complexity. This challenge is compounded by the fact that De Bethune's chrono-focused tourbillon rotates at twice the speed and beat rate of a conventional one-minute/18,000 VpH tourbillon assembly. While manic maneuvering increases the XP Tourbillon's timing capabilities, it consumes a lot of energy.

Regardless: De Bethune's high-beat tourbillon calibre DB2009V4 achieves a 5-day power reserve within a 43mm x 8.1mm case size, almost the same as the two standard XP models.

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Flageollet and his engineers achieved this mechanical marvel by implementing the lightest tourbillon assembly in history, weighing just 0.18 grams. To be clear, this moving assembly of silicon, titanium, platinum, and 63 individual components weighs 81/1,000ths of a gram. Even better, the payoff goes beyond a staggering power reserve, allowing De Bethune to claim less than a second of precision working 24 hours a day.

But this 10-piece limited edition is more than a precision instrument; it's a beauty. Each example includes a fire blue grade 5 titanium hour ring with matching blue hands in the center. The silver-plated dial is an example of a true rose-turned (i.e. reduced) guilloche, with a dynamic "grain d'orge" or "barley corn" pattern. The back of the XP Tourbillon's case features a microcosm of the solar system's planetary alignment, the night of November 19, 2011, the night of De Bethune's iconic "Aiguille d'Or" at that year's GPHG championship.

As with all De Bethune models, each example of any DB28XP variant is fully customizable. DB manufactures its own cases, dials and movements, and has staff proficient in the arts of engraving and gem-setting. If the budget is sufficient, nothing is beyond imagination.

Dominated by economic turmoil, social distancing, the demise of Baselworld, and the internet hype for watches called "Kermit" and "Snoopy," it's easy to overlook a low-key independent watch brand. But astute watch collectors know that true value comes from exclusivity, innovation and beauty. De Bethune's DB28XP series stands out in a chaotic marketplace and a wild world.

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 Отправлено: 29.03.22 10:22. Заголовок: Bell & Ross BR 05 DIAMOND BR05A-BL-STFLD/SFD Replica

De Bethune: DB28GS 'JPS' - A tribute to the bold 'JPS' zeitgeist

If you are an avid fan of Formula 1 racing, the name JPS (John Player Specials) is sure to set off alarm bells. With a string of victories - seven Constructors' World Championships, six Drivers' World Championships and more, JPS is like a mechanical dream, often referred to as the most beautiful Formula 1 car ever made.

Paying homage to the era’s bold “JPS” spirit, De Bethune presents a new version of the DB28GS “JPS” sports watch – a monstrous, no-nonsense black paired with dazzling gold.

De Bethune DB28 GS "JPS" DB28GSV2JPS



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The DB28GS 'JPS' is yet another testament to De Bethune's expertise in handling titanium oxides and their toning. The iconic De Bethune blue is now replaced by golden yellow, a creative process that requires new assembly techniques and texturing skills. Between polished and matte finishes, dark grey and deep black, the gold trim you see here is actually yellow titanium.

In 1978, the Lotus 78 JPS Mark III revolutionized the aerodynamics of competitive driving with a new upturned wing profile that allowed it to take advantage of the suction effect. The car really "sticks" to the track. Likewise, Denis Flageollet and his team worked to improve the performance of the movement's regulating mechanism by eliminating the suction effect that pushes the movement against the main plate.

Let's simplify. It is worth recalling that air is also a fluid, although it is invisible. The Swiss mathematician Daniel Bernoulli proposed a principle that in fluid flow, acceleration and pressure reduction occur simultaneously. This is what enables the plane to fly. Its wings have two different profiles: On the curved side, the air moves faster (because it has to cover a greater distance); on the other side, the air moves slower, and the pressure difference creates lift that enables the plane to flight.

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That's exactly what Denis Flageollet is trying to do with his balance wheels: they pass so close to the main plate that they tend to have a suction effect. In the case of a race car, its upturned wings create negative lift that pushes the car toward the track, increasing the grip of the tires and making it faster in the corners. De Bethune's balance wheels have the exact opposite effect, giving them a "wing" effect that provides the lift and lightness that almost allows them to "fly".

While the suction effect is more powerful as the car accelerates, the same happens during a balanced acceleration phase. Just as an F1 car uses upturned wings to press the car to the ground when accelerating, this benefit is equally effective for balancing, using the process of an airplane wing to avoid it being "pushed" against the main board.

Did you know that F1 engineers were among the first to investigate DLC (diamond-like carbon) friction-reducing coatings to reduce friction in metal parts in engines, thereby improving performance. Likewise, Denis Flageollet and his team worked on the fantastic properties of DLC coatings on hardened steel to improve the durability of the watch's black floating lugs and bezel. However, De Bethune only uses DLC treatments on super hard tempered stainless steels such as those used for engines or sharp surgical tools. By applying DLC ​​to soft materials like 316L stainless steel or titanium, the material can actually deform and become brittle from the impact of the coating.

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Another important attribute of a sports watch is its legibility and accessibility for an active lifestyle. De Bethune has undoubtedly delivered. Keeping these facts in mind, the movement has been developed from the beginning in such a way that the dial and movement are illuminated from within. Thus, the white light source is generated in a completely mechanical way that works on a generator-inspired principle.

A pusher at 6 o'clock, driven by a double barrel, is illuminated on demand through the gear train. With the help of an original micro-generator, this gear train provides the energy needed to illuminate the watch face without affecting its operation and the smooth running of the movement. This is a real challenge, comparable to the high-tech operation of the minute repeater movement, where the overall energy efficiency must be maximized and perfectly controlled.

Even at night, a few seconds of light is enough to read the time. The DB28 GS 'JPS' is black and gold, even in the dark.

With a diameter of 44mm, the DB28GS 'JPS' is water resistant to 105m (10 ATM) and is no exception to the De Bethune rule of wearer comfort. Combination of black zirconium and stainless steel, soft hand-polished finish, crown at 12 o'clock and of course the patented floating lug system with the famous tapered tips, including polished yellow grade 5 titanium inserts reminiscent of The sides of the case ensure that the DB28GS 'JPS' is particularly suitable for any wrist size.

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